Mixed relics

Getting on for ten days ago now, to Marshwood Vale. The same day as the attempted tweet of reference 1. With the geographical result, that I now know that Marshwood Vale is drained by the Char which comes out at Charmouth. Over the hill from Marshwood Vale and one has the rather larger Axe Valley which is drained by the Axe which comes out at Axmouth, or possibly Seaton if you are being picky. And then over the hill from the Axe Valley and one is in the still larger valley of the Parrett, which drains north rather than south, through the Somerset Levels, and out into Bridgewater Bay, in the Bristol Channel. With Crewkerne sitting on the watershed between the two.

First stop the Five Bells in Whitchurch Canonicorum. A friendly pub, containing a lot of dogs and some people who lived in or near the village. Altogether a proper pub, which also managed a respectable steak and kidney pudding.

Heritage view of church

Spot the difference

From there to the church, which turned out to be notable for being one of just two churches in the land (the other being Westminster Abbey) which contained a saintly relic, in this case that of Saint Wit alternatively Saint Candida, possibly a lady done to death, in company with the better attested Saint Boniface, by the Vikings on one of their raids. Bing offers various other theories. The church was around at the time of King Alfred, and went on to be given, along with a couple of others, to the clerk who attended the Conqueror's deathbed. It went on to become a large church attracting considerable numbers of pilgrims.

The relic

The house for the relic was not particularly fancy by the standards of some that I have seen overseas, in the lands of the Pope, but it did come with three healing holes. The idea was that you put the ailing part of the body in the hole, rather like you might put it in a scanner in a hospital, and the emanations from the relic would do the business. However, the present vicar does not appear to approve of this sort of thing and suggests you leave written requests in said holes, with paper and pencils being provided to that end.

The instructions

He did, however, allow a new statue of the saint to be placed in a niche at the bottom of the tower, just about visible if you click to enlarge the second of the two snaps above. A rather ugly new statue, very much in the tradition of ugly modern art in old churches and cathedrals.

The organ was the subject of a major overhaul, with the result that one could not get at the piano adjacent, noticed at reference 2. A piano which the book of the church claims is a Broadwood on loan. Perhaps that loan expired and they had to negotiate a new one. The book of the church also claims that the bells were cast in pits in the churchyard - with my thinking, clearly incorrect, that bell founding was a very tricky business, best carried out by specialist bell founders in specialised foundries. Like the one in Whitechapel, recently deceased. See references 3 and 4.

Nave, looking east

Unusual detailing

A lot of unusual detailing in the church, probably heavily rebuilt in the 19th century, which would repay a further visit.

From a small relic, to a large relic in the form of Pilsdon Pen, on top of the ridge between the Char and Axe valleys. An ancient hill fort, with ramparts, with an interior which would make a splendid picnic place in the summer. Unusually, while the National Trust has the fort, the Council have the small car park, with this last not having got around to the state of the art parking machines now being deployed by the National Trust. In fact, it was free, not bad for a major, if undeveloped, beauty spot.

Trig point

There was a strong, cold wind, so I thought it best not to climb the trig point for a selfie. Snapped here looking north.

Back to Broad Street, more or less empty apart from a large herring gull standing proud in the middle of it.

A little later, sandwiches in the bar of the Royal Lion, where we both had a fine log fire and a lady who came close to being a bag lady, getting the prices of what seemed like a very large number of drinks before settling for a lime soda or some such. Worth noticing that this bar had neither television nor music, a pleasant surprise these days.

Rounded out the proceedings with a visit to the Volunteer at the top of Broad Street. Not quite as grand, with their log fire being enclosed. And so far more economical.

Pit stop

The following day, on way home, we came across an unusual café, just before the A303 joins the M3. Petrol very expensive. Café tricked out more like a restaurant than a café, including a substantial and brand new toilet block. Staffed mainly by EU nationals, perhaps accommodated in the yellow huts left, while the owner gave the unfortunate appearance of someone who has spent a great deal of money on a new venture and who is now anxiously watching his till ticking over. But the teas were fine, and we will be back to see if he gets his nerve back!

Reference 1: https://psmv4.blogspot.com/2019/02/attempted-tweet.html.

Reference 2: https://psmv4.blogspot.com/2019/02/piano-6.html.

Reference 3: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whitechapel_Bell_Foundry.

Reference 4: http://www.whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk/.